Head Gasket Replacement

[lil-blackie]

I need to replace my head gasket and maybe surface the head.

1) Any advice on the procedure.

2) Any suggestions on perfomance machine shops in the area?

Thanks

[Hal]

You don't really need a performance machine shop, unless you are having other operations performed.

A simple check for flatness and possible surfacing can be done by several shops.

Western Engine Supply
Heads by Paul
NAPA

Use only a Mitsu OEM gasket unless you have performance related reasons to use a metal gasket.

Since the head is coming off, consider doing a full timing belt and water pump "job"

Hal

[v413nc3]

If you have a 95/96 and they break down the head for you to mill it make SURE they don't break your CAS.

[hooptytalon]

Larry Kisling on 28 1/2 rd in GJ does very good work. Does alot of drag car work. Very reasonable too....my .02$

[lil-blackie]

Thanks for the replies. Good to see DSM'ers out here.

If I need to get the head milled what are the standard dimensions of gaskets so that I don't change the compression ratio.

Thanks,
Marc

[Dan Ritchie]

I just checked the dimentions of a multi-later mitsu gasket that I have lying around, and using a $20 digital caliper that I got from Checker it looks to be 1.5mm. Unfortunately, I can't say that's 100% accurate.

Also, I'm taking this back and trading it in for the factory gasket when some come in on Wednesday, so I can get the factory thickness then for you if you still need it.

I do know the metal is slightly thicker than oem because it's designed to be used after milling the head (so I hear anyways).

[Dan Ritchie]

Ok, just checked my used gasket from the old rebuilt motor, looks exactly like the stock one...also about 1.5mm, maybe the metal one isn't thicker? I'll check my new one on Wednesday and if there's a difference I'll post again.

[92laserawd]

All I have to say about a head gasket replacement is. Label everything. As if that wasn't obvious. Allthough the guy that was supposed to fix my car before I bought it, did not label anything, and just threw all nuts and bolts into a container. So please avoid the headache that I had to deal with. I did get it running and it moves nicely. :D

[Dan Ritchie]

It's not just a head gasket replacement, it's a 6 bolt swap with a 2g head, and I've got both of the motors here! My roomate was thowing away a shelf system when he moved out so that has helped a lot, but if one motor wasn't enough, now I've got to keep track of what I need, what I don't need, and what I might need. I've found that after removing something just putting the bolts back where they go can help a lot.

[CU DSM]

I'd have to agree with Dan on putting the bolts back where they came from.

If you want to be really organized, get yourself a role of masking tape, a Sharpie marker, scrap paper/pen, and a box full of Ziploc bags.

If you need/want the bolts to go back in their original locations upon reinstallation, take the masking tape and number each bolt/screw/washer/whatever. Draw yourself a little diagram of whatever you took apart, making sure to number each bolt location on the diagram to match your taped/numbered bolts. If you don't want to draw a diagram, start from the 12 o'clock position of the part and label everything going clockwise from there until you get back to your starting point. Then stick it all in a Ziploc and take the Sharpie and write what that bag of parts goes to. If you really want to go overboard, clean everything with WD-40/etc. before putting it in the little bag and then it'll be clean and ready to reinstall when the time comes.

Not only does it keep it all organized, but you don't have to worry about losing tiny loose parts and it keeps it all dry (including your diagram) if anything happens to spill nearby.

I know it's a bit anal-retentive, but if you've got a lot of things taken apart, it saves headaches in the long run.

-Jonathan

[89mitsu]

Maybe if the parts are too large to fit in a zip-lock. I looked at the part(s) from top to bottom and then used duct tape to fasten loose parts left to right. Nice tip CU

[CU DSM]

Thank you.

I'd stay away from duct tape because it can really leave behind a trail of adhesive and then you've got to use Goo Gone or Goo Off or a similar product just to clean it up.

And now that I think about it, I don't actually use masking tape, I use the blue painters tape because it isn't as sticky as masking tape and comes off cleaner.

I'm glad that helped. Hopefully the duct tape comes off fairly easily for you.

-Jonathan

[gseclipse93]

I got to replace the head gasket on my '92 gsx, and i was wondering if the 4 layer metal gasket is much different then the oem gasket? also i was wondering if i have to bore my block for 2g pistions to fit and what exactely i have to do to fit them on 1g rods. any advice is much appreciated! and i dont mean to steal or post all these questions on lil-blackie thread. its just that it was talking about the same thing i needed to post about, so i figured why start another thread.
thanks-
josh

[89mitsu]

I regret to say I mistakenly made my comments as a general suggestion.
I’m in the middle of a 1.6 to a 2.0 swap and found your comments helpful.
I would never apply any adhesives to any internal parts. I did find that keepingthe parts together helped me reassemble everything with the same parts that fit well.
Thanks for your help.