PDA

View Full Version : Re-routing BOV though Intake, still bogs?



birelshifterkart
12-15-2005, 05:47 PM
Hey there. I re-routed my BOV back through the intake, yet at WOT in anygear from 3000rpm-5300rpm it will "bog" and act like its flooding. However, at 1/2 throttle it doesn't do it, and I can be WOT from about 5000rpm and it won't do it.

Any thoughts?

birelshifterkart
12-15-2005, 09:17 PM
Fuel cut is a lot more severe than bogging right?

I have the stock T-2-small and i'm running stock boost........feels like its flooding OR its not getting enough spark?

However, when i'm at half throttle it won't do it.......maybe Fuel Pressure isn't rising enough?

Thanks for your help guys.

1gsxtasy
12-15-2005, 11:48 PM
Hey man. My best guess without actually riding in the car would be it kinda sounds like knock... who knows what's setting it off but that would be my guess.

v413nc3
12-16-2005, 01:11 AM
Well, first off re-routing the BoV doesn't affect WOT operation. The compressor bypass valve re-circulation is there for when you let off the throttle. At which point metered air can re-circulate back into the system and you can avoid the ECU from going rich because of a lack of pre-metered air.

Step 1: Test for leaks
Step 2: Re-test for leaks
Step 3: Check for spark issues, more than likely your plug wires are shot if there is no boost leak.

birelshifterkart
12-16-2005, 04:04 AM
Thanks. I will test for leaks and then check the wires if there aren't any leaks.
The plug wires do look a bit old, that might be the problem right there. Thanks guys!

CU DSM
12-16-2005, 09:44 AM
Thanks. I will test for leaks and then check the wires if there aren't any leaks.
The plug wires do look a bit old, that might be the problem right there. Thanks guys!

If you don't know when the last time they were changed, then you should definitely replace them, along with some new NGK BPR6ES plugs for a daily driven, mildly modded car, or go a step colder to the BPR7ES, which are going to foul-up a bit faster. Also make sure to check the gaps, even though they should be correct right out of the box. Check for .028-.030 gaps, preferably closer to the .028 gap. Gap all four of them the same. (I'm not meaning to insult your intelligence here... if you already know this, maybe somebody else will learn from it.)

There's always tons of debate on which plugwires are the best, but the stock plugwires from Mitsubishi (blue NGKs) actually work pretty darn well. You should be able to change out your plugs and wires for around $60 with all brand new parts.

Even if you are automatically going to change the plugs and wires, definitely do as J suggested and take care of any and all leaks.

-Jonathan

birelshifterkart
12-16-2005, 12:47 PM
I was reading up.........seems that this can usually be caused by oil or moisture in the spark plug wells.

My car does have a slight valve cover leak (oil cap?)......so i suspect that is the issue. Gonna pick up some plug, change em', and clean out that area with some compressed air. I think that should do the trick. Thanks again!

birelshifterkart
12-16-2005, 06:34 PM
New plugs, and plug wires (Thanks Don!).

Problem solved. Thanks for your suggestions guys!

toutsuu
12-18-2005, 02:47 PM
I was about to say that it is the wires. My car was doing the exact same thing you described, got new wires, no more problem.