Clutch problems!

[AWDFury]

It's hard to get the clutch to engage. When I push it in, it only goes in half-way. It's pretty hard to get the car into gear (That's a given). Is this a sign that I need a new clutch or does it just need to be adjusted?
Thanks,
Tommy

[biglady112]

My money would be you need a new clutch master and slave cylinder. As well as proper bleeding and adjustment.

Steven

[Jack(IAT)]

I agree with Steve, but other things you may want to check real quick:

CW. If the crank is walking, people will notice their clutch 'friction zone' getting closer and closer to the floor before they can't shift anymore. Has the engine been stalling?

Broken disk hub. You have an ACT street disk? If so, I have been seeing a lot of the ACT sprung street disk hub pins breaking causing a similar problem...

Most likely though is master or slave. Those things have been popping all over the place this past year. It appears 2Gs are getting old enough to have them fail all at once now... DO NOT buy a cheap autoparts store unit. OEM factory Mitsu is the only way to fly on those. It appears that the autoparts store units don't push as much fluid to the slave as the factory units- leaving the clutch friction zone at the floor to burn up your trannies synchro blocker rings.

Jack

[TSi21]

If you are looking for OEM, I think that DSMotorsport.com stocks both the slave and master. Thats what I'm going to be doing as soon as it stops being so cold outside.

Chris

[biglady112]

So does mile high mitsubishi. We get a big ol' discount there too. Plus they ship.

Tommy, I would check your hydraulics first. Checking the clutch isn't the easiest to do, nor is checking the thrust play. Checking that properly means pulling the oil pan.

Look under the dash and see if there is any moisture on the rod for the master cylinder or firewall. Also look on the slave rod as well. It there is any moisture there or on the the motor mount/cross member, try there first.

Steven

[Jack(IAT)]

So does mile high mitsubishi. We get a big ol' discount there too. Plus they ship.

Tommy, I would check your hydraulics first. Checking the clutch isn't the easiest to do, nor is checking the thrust play. Checking that properly means pulling the oil pan.

Look under the dash and see if there is any moisture on the rod for the master cylinder or firewall. Also look on the slave rod as well. It there is any moisture there or on the the motor mount/cross member, try there first.

Steven

Huh? It takes me 10 seconds to know if the crank is walking. Just giving him other ideas on what to check if the master and slave are okay dude...

Jack

[biglady112]

Well I guess you could just grab the crank pulley and push/pull it back and forth. Most guys don't know to check that way. Is that what you are referring to? or the flywheel if the tranny is off?

Steven

[v413nc3]

Steve, a crank starts to walk long before you can grab it and noticably move it. The correct way would be to measure the play with a proper dial gauge. Although I did get a bad block a number of years ago that was repalced by a fly-by-night shop that had put the thrust bearing on the #4 main cap. The crank tore into the block so bad there was a 1/2" deap gouge in it. You could literally push the crank 1/2" in either direction. And they claimed that it wasn't their fault the block failed.

[biglady112]

I know, I know, just trying to give Tommy some quick pointers as he is still a little unfirmiliar with some of these things. He is only 19, wait he may be 20 now. He still has tons of stuff to learn and break. As do I. Still uneasy about the whole AEM thing you know.

Stevn

[PudrowDSM]

Sometimes checking for endplay it helps to take the slave off the tranny... When my car walked it showed no sign of movement at first. But when the slave was taken off, it made a difference and you could easily see the play. Just another idea to throw in.

Travis

[AWDFury]

CW. If the crank is walking, people will notice their clutch 'friction zone' getting closer and closer to the floor before they can't shift anymore. Has the engine been stalling?


The clutch hasn't been feeling like a performance clutch for a while. It's been feeling more like a stock clutch where it is easy to push in, and I have the Act 2600. It has not been stalling though.
Thanks,
Tommy

[AWDFury]

Look under the dash and see if there is any moisture on the rod for the master cylinder or firewall. Also look on the slave rod as well. It there is any moisture there or on the the motor mount/cross member, try there first.

Steven
I'll check that out when I get home Steve.
Thanks,
Tommy

[AWDFury]

I hope it is not crank walk! My dad and neighbor think it is the slave cylinder as well. Eventhough I'm 21 I've never been the handy guy. This is my first project car though I've had it for about almost 2 years now. It is fun, looks one of a kind, and worth keeping! Thanks for the input guys.
Tommy

[AWDFury]

I didn't see any moisture under the dash near the firewall anywhere. Is there anything else I can checkout?
Thanks,
Tommy