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b_diddy
05-15-2006, 01:31 PM
ok, so its been awhile since i last surfaced, i know, but i hope someone would be able to lend mea few helping words here.

a month or so ago, a strange rubbing like sound started coming clearly from the rear right. i took it to a couple garages, and just from what i was saying, they said it could be wheel bearing or a brake issue. i finally got some time to start working on it lately, and have found some intereesting things. I took off the wheel, and spoon the rotor to try and detect where the noise was coming from. It sounds clearly like its coming from the brake assembly. Also, its sticks, and is hard to turn most of the way. THere is only a 6-10 in section on the rotor where it will turn freely. with this, i eliminated the wheel bearing theory. Plus, the wheel is steady on. It dosent move side to side at all. so i went on to remove the caliper, and then when i turned hte whell, it seemed to spin just fine, no odd noises. The brake pads are in great condition, and deffinetly not the reason. i put the calliper back on, bleed the brakes, and went to drive again, and the same noise was coming from it.
My theory is that either the rotor is warped, or the caliper may be sticking. What do you think? what other tests can i try to narrow this problem down. Any input is welcomed, and let me know if you need any more information.

Thank you tons as always!!

Brock

v413nc3
05-15-2006, 01:42 PM
Brock Brock Brock, welcome back :) And your typing is still an atrocity :)

Just because you can't get free play from the wheel does not mean the bearing is good. Keep that in mind, I replaced one on Steph's car a while back, it was making horrid noises but there was no slop in the wheel.

It sounds to me like a warped rotor. Get a straight edge and find out. It takes all of 15 minutes to take the rotor off.

KeltonDSMer
05-15-2006, 01:46 PM
Sometimes the bolt that alowes for caliper movent gets stuck, make sure it is greased up.

95TSIAWD
05-15-2006, 02:03 PM
Sounds to me like it is a warped rotor as well . . . Seeing as how when you removed the caliper, it spun freely. I would also grease the slider pins, that could be what is causing the noise.

b_diddy
05-15-2006, 03:40 PM
lol, not my typing :)

ok, well im going to pick up a new rotor tommarow, throw that in, and regrease the bolts, and see if that corrects the problem.

stupid question, can anyone give me the correct procedure for bleeding the brakes, i think i might not have done them right...

b_diddy
05-16-2006, 05:25 PM
ok, i put on the new rotor, noise didnt stop, it is actually a more clear grinding now

what i did notice, after taking the rotor off, the wheel hub when spun, was not spining in a circle, it semmed to be oscilating slightly. Also, the hub had a bit of play in, not much at all, but just a little bit. is this normal? what does this mean.

Im on a deadline, this has got to be fixed in exactly a week, suggestions? should i just take it to a shop (which i dont want to do)

v413nc3
05-16-2006, 11:40 PM
Sounds like your bearing is fried.

cotsi95
05-17-2006, 04:07 AM
I would replace the wheel bearing and see if that helps.

As for the brake bleeding procedure...here you go courtesy of All Data Pro :D

1. Ensure master cylinder reservoir is full.
2. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Position a drain pan under the wheel being bled.
4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal with a slow even strokes until pressure is felt, then hold it. CAUTION: Do not depress brake pedal fully to the end of the master cylinder stroke. This may cause damage to the master cylinder.
5. Starting at the bleeder screw farthest from the master cylinder, using a suitable wrench, open the bleeder valve one full turn. Watch for air bubbles in the fluid, and listen for air escaping from the system.
6. With the brake pedal still depressed, close the bleeder valve.
Have the assistant pump the brake pedal several times, then repeat procedure until air no longer is noticed when bleeder is opened. CAUTION: Do not depress brake pedal fully to the end of the master cylinder stroke, this may cause damage to the master cylinder.
7.Repeat previous steps for all bleeders following the wheel bleeding sequence specified in Hydraulic Brake System/Specifications . Ensure all air is removed from the hydraulic system. CAUTION: While bleeding the system, inspect brake fluid supply in the master cylinder often so as not to allow the master cylinder to run dry.

Upon completion of hydraulic system bleeding proceed as follows:
Ensure the master cylinder reservoir is full. Add suitable brake fluid as needed, and securely reinstall the master cylinder cap.
Lower the vehicle. Ensure brakes operate properly and pedal is firm.

b_diddy
05-17-2006, 11:44 AM
word up, thanks guys, im going to do the wheel bearing tommarow, hope thats it...

b_diddy
05-24-2006, 12:09 PM
alright, it was the wheel bearing, and all is well now! Thanks again to everyone for their input, i really appreciate it, and now its off to FL. Hopefully ill see all you guys one last time before i graduate and never return to CO :( talk to you guys again soon

Brock

v413nc3
05-24-2006, 12:10 PM
Drive safe!