View Full Version : Question about Flywheel / crank
hisandherturbo
06-05-2006, 01:19 PM
I just pulled my tranny due to "clutch" noise. Found the street disc rivets were broke, so I ordered a new street disc for my 2600 (only 500 real easy miles due to I was breaking in the new engine). Now my question is, if I crab ahold of the flywheel and pull/push it, it does move (probally less then 1mm, seems even too small to measure. Is this a problem or is there supposed to be this "play"?
THX
JOE
sbiggi
06-05-2006, 01:21 PM
That would make me nervous.
I would check your crank endplay and make sure its in spec.
hisandherturbo
06-05-2006, 01:22 PM
I am sorry, but I have no idea what that means, or how to do it.
JOE
sbiggi
06-05-2006, 01:29 PM
Basically you need a dial gauge.
Wap the crank pulley with a deadblow hammer and set the dial gauge up.
Then gently pry the crank pulley forward with a crowbar and meassure how much it moves.
You are checking for thrust bearing wear, ie crank walk.
Toybreaker
06-05-2006, 10:23 PM
Fresh .002 -.007 inch
Service limit .016 inch
Your built 6 bolt motor with ~500 miles should most definately be in the factory range.
Every machinist has their own ideas about clearances in general.
The crankshaft main bearing, and rod bearing clearance can be adjusted by a savvy machinist to better suit your needs. The crank is ground undersize, and new, thicker bearings are fitted. By varying the amount removed, the clearances can be optimized.
However, crank thrust clearance isn't something that's easily adjustable. The crank endplay is set during the manufacturing process when the center bearing journal shoulders/sides are ground. The center main bearing web in the block takes a different shape bearing. In addition to the main journal half, the center bearing has shoulders. The crank floats in between them on a film of oil. Any forward or rearward force will shove the crank against these shoulders. That distance is crank endplay.
To the best of my knowledge, nobody offers an assortment of different widths of thrust bearings for these motors. Which means what you got, is what you got. I would most definately measure it if it seems excessive, if only for peace of mind.
As a reference, the average piece of paper is ~.004, fold it over on itself, and that's the edge of the factory spec..
Please post back what you find.
The clutch coming apart at the rivets is interesting, did anything seem weird during assembly?
hisandherturbo
06-06-2006, 08:09 AM
Thanks for the awesome input. I don't have the tools to measure it myself, or any idea of where to do it at. I would assume you can't do it with the engine still in. I am going to "TRY" and contact the person who put this together for me and see what they think or can check. If I am able to get any answers I will let you all know. I am sure I will just end up putting the tranny back on when my new disc arrives. As far as the clutch goes, the 2600 has done me a lot of good so far, I didn't really want a 6 puck. And haven't really looked into twin setups that much (didn't think I was really at that stage). If this 2600 wears out to quickly or doesn't work for me then I will look at the twim setup or something else.
THX
JOE
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