Choices?

[SavYodels]

Hello everybody. I have a very important question concerning camber correction for the rear of any 2G. My camber is bad and I need to correct it. I checked VFAQ and decided to do the longer bolts and washer trick, I am just a little concerned if this is a safe approach to adjusting camber? I cannot find any bolts that are M10 x 1.25, 30 mm long and are hardness 10.9, all I can find is M10 x 1.25, 30 mm long and hardness 8.8. Does it really need to be 10.9? Or would 8.8 suffice? I checked how much 8.8 can handle and how much 10.9 can handle per square inch, and it was an astonishing 100 lbs! :eek: ! So here are my questions:

1) 8.8 or 10.9?
2) What is the bolt graded at on the car, oem?
3) Is this safe or are there other variations to this problem?
4) What is a safe height to set my ride at, when is low too low?
5) At what height does a dsm handle the best?
6) Is this camber solution safe and approved for autocross?

Thank you very much for your time and response. Have a great day. :)
-Sven

[hoffman]

1) 8.8 or 10.9?
2) What is the bolt graded at on the car, oem?
3) Is this safe or are there other variations to this problem?

To these questions I'm going to recommend the Ingalls rear camber kit. They are only $40 from Road Race (call and ask for Ty). The rear kit will correct it up to 2*. This is what I run on my car.

4) What is a safe height to set my ride at, when is low too low?

When you corner hard and the fender cuts the tires. I always started out with at least a 3 finger gap to the fender. From there doing some corner weighing to make minute adjustments will come in handy.

5) At what height does a dsm handle the best?

I have no idea.

6) Is this camber solution safe and approved for autocross?

Yes, perfectly legal; but check your class rules to make sure suspension mods are allowed.

[SavYodels]

thank you very much for your input, it was very helpful. :)

[Ty@RRE]

For the rear suspension and correcting camber.

Yes we sell the rear camber kit for $40 bucks before shipping. OR...you can stop by your local hardware store and pick up 8 bolts (M10 x 1.25 - 40mm long) and pick up a box of M10 washers for next to nothing. Just make sure the bolts are at least Grade 8 or 10.9

Here is the 10 year old instructions we give everyone. I know it's cheesy but you get the idea.

95-99 Eclipse Rear Camber Correction Kit (http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/2g_3g_rear_camber_kit.jpg)

For the front you can get by with some negative camber. Actually you want some negative camber. What is killing the tires is not so much the camber but the toe being wrong. Cars are set with very little toe out from factory. About 1/32" of an inch. Each time you accelerate the the turning forces of the axles will pull the front wheels in, thus giving you some 0" toe and if your suspension tidbits is worn, toe in. What kills tires is having the toe set wrong. Each time you lower or raise your vehicle, the toe will change. You can run anywhere from 1 - 2.5" negative camber and your tires will last a decent amount of time say. Street driving 8 months easily. Granted if you don't track or autocross your car.

If your car is dropped no more than 1.50" you should be fine and the factory parts have decent amount of adjustment to bring it back to stock. Anything lower, well how deep is your pocket?

As for what is acceptable for autocross? Unless it's sanctioned like SCCA, check the rule book or talk to someone who dodges cones on a frequent basis in your area.