Clutch/ Hydrolic issue ?

[NJpearl94]

So a few days ago my car started having an issue with the clutch not disengaging. It was tough to shift and when I put it in 1st gear with the clutch in and rev to about 5k it would start to crep forward. I assumed that it was my master cylinder because the clutch adjustment was all the way out and there was a small amount of fluid leaking on the inside of the firewall.

Replaced the master and now the clutch feels soft and won't disengage at all. I can not get it into gear while the car is running. I have bled it at least 50 times and the tranny goes through the gears fine while the car is not running.

Wondering if anyone has similar expieriences, ideas where to look, or any other suggestions??

Thanks for any help

Nick J.

[fusionsport]

You probably just need to re-bleed the system. You also must bleed the m/c itself. YOu need to bleed the clutch properly to remove all the air, otherwise you can bleed it all day and use gallons of fluid and it still wont be right. Rfer to the FSm or a Haynes manual.

[v413nc3]

You probably just need to re-bleed the system. You also must bleed the m/c itself. YOu need to bleed the clutch properly to remove all the air, otherwise you can bleed it all day and use gallons of fluid and it still wont be right. Rfer to the FSm or a Haynes manual.


Don, that was great information but that typing was an atrocity and completely unlike you.

[fusionsport]

Yeah well the edit feature has a time limit and when the faster I type the worse it is.

[NJpearl94]

Thats what it feels like is I just can't bleed it all the way. I was refering to the haynes but not quite sure how to actually bleed the m/c itself. I am just using the bleeder valve off the slave.

Thanks

Nick

[fusionsport]

To bleed the M/C you really need do do it on a bench, but you can do it in the car with two people. One person in the car ready to pump the pedal, the other outside the car with a 10mm wrench for the M/C line fitting. First fill the clutch reservior, then the person with the wrench cracks the fitting on the M/C line, the person slowly pumps the pedal and holds it to the floor, then the M/C line fitting is close and the pedal pulled back up. You need to do this until you see fluid coming out of the M/C line fitting with no air bubbles. Usually only takes a couple of pumps.
Once this is done, bleed the slave cylinder by having the person in the car pump the clutch until you observe the pushrod moving the throwout bearing arm, then have them hold the pedal to the floor, open the bleed screw, close the bleed screw, then the pedal is pulled back up and the pumping begins again. A couple of notes here- you MUST use a bleeder bottle or your wasting your time. A bleeder bottle can be as simple as a pop bottle with a hole drilled in its lid and a lentgh of clear plastic tubing from the parts store, Wla-Mart, wherever. Put about an inch of clean brake fluid in the bottom so that it covers the end of the tubing and away you go. You must also be very careful to only open the bleeder when the pedal is down or on a downstroke, otherwise air will be drawn back into the cylinder and you are wasting your efforts. NEVER allow the pedal to be drwn back up until the bleed screw is opened.
Do not re-use the brake fluid you bleed out of the system, it is hygroscopic and will absorb a decent amount of moisture from the air in a surprisingly short period of time, and the last thing you want is contaminated fluid.

[NJpearl94]

Thanks a ton for the help Don. I will give it a wurl after work today.

[Jack(IAT)]

You can bleed it all day long, but if the new master you popped in there isn't adjusted properly, it will never work right.

Jack

[v413nc3]

Yeah well the edit feature has a time limit and when the faster I type the worse it is.

That made me laugh :) Not bustin your balls, just noticing that you normally post quite well. I was curious if you were drunk.

[NJpearl94]

So I have been skiing a bunch and put the car on the back burner. This weekend I took the time to try and fiqure out what is wrong with it.

I ended bleeding the m/c itself and then the whole system again and got a good amount of peddle pressure back. Still no clutch disengagement. Pulled the tranny. Clutch, flywheel looked fine, there was a shim on the pivot ball but the fork looked a little worn so I swapped it with a nice one I had in my garage. I made sure my clutch adjustment was good (m/c and both stop switches). Tranny back in, still no shifty.

So what I did was went ahead and made a longer rod for the slave cylinder. I know this is not a permanent solution but I wanted to make sure nothing was binding up. Car shifts great. So what exactly am I compensating for with the longer slave rod? Pedal assembly I assume and so that is what needs to be replaced?

Nick

[93GST6]

That's what i was trying to figure out on my car it does the exactly the same thing, but not all the time just when it gets hot.