maybe someone can help?

[tekky]

Bah shoulda asked this earlier, anyone have a datalogger for a 2g that might be willing to come out so I could check timing and such w/o having limp it to a shop... and pay out the a$$? I'm racking my brains and cant think of anyone I know that has one... If anyone's willing, my emails ktiedt@phoenixfusion.com and I'll give details from there... I'd really appreciate it... hell I'd even be willing to buy dinner or somit... I hate not being able to drive my car :confused:

Heh, thanks to anyone that even reads this, much less considers it :)

[DlandryTSI]

What timing do you need checked? The timing belt? I thought that the 2g's were self correcting on the base timing?

--Dave

[XakEp]

They are... How you tune your car will determine how the ECU sets the timing. I'm getting a datalogger soon for my 2G, so when I get it I'll let everyone know.

[john]

What's the problem and/or symptom(s)?

[-EpicEVO-]

my good friend has one.. let me see if he will let you use it..

[tekky]

Symptoms... car started knocking... was running hot, added a bit of oil, still didnt quiet down, I assume its timing... shouldnt be anything worse than that, engines hardly got 15k miles on it

[Hal]

audible knocking?

that's NOT timing.

low oil pressure, rod bearing failure, are a few things that come to mind.

[tekky]

How much trouble is replacing rod bearings? Never have had to do much internal work, would like to learn more of the internals, however don't have easy access to a place to work on my car here... Can anyone give me an idea on how labor intensive this is? And talking to a friend, he suggested that it might be a valve hittinga piston due to broken spring, or bad rocker/push rod.

If this is going to involve internal work. and someone would be able to help me out, show me whats going on, I'm more than willing to compensate for time/travel, I just don't want to have to hand over my next months pay for a rip off shop to do the work *if* its something that can be done at home with help from someone.

[Hal]

First... a valve will make noise when it hits a piston.

But it will do it ONCE. After that, it's bent up out of the way and no longer makes contact.

Second... if you have the skills, tools, and other things needed to do the work... then by all means do it yourself.

If not, you WILL have to PAY to have it done.

Shop labor rates are about $60 and hour. Which, when you CAN'T do it yourself is a good price.

Consider what it would cost you to buy the tools, obtain the knowledge, etc. to do the job yourself.

Don't classify shops (in general) as rip offs because you don't want to pay the going rate.

Hal

[tekky]

I just havent found a good shop here yet, and its been a very bad day, and $60/hour is dealer rate back home, business shops were seldom charging $50/hr back home.... so to me thats high. I dont have the means to do it myself, hence the reason I'm willing to pay for someone to help me out and explain things as we go, not asking for a lecture or anything, just quick explanations so I can put it all together in my own way.

I'd much rather pay to learn it and fix it, than to just fix it and still be clueless on the matter. Some small method to my madness.... I believe...

[john]

Well put, Hal.

[XakEp]

Tekky - hop on AIM and lets hook up

my screen name is MightyMofoMan

[DlandryTSI]

How long has the car been "knocking". Does it do it while idling or only when you rev it? Try holding it at 2k rpm's and see if the noise gets louder.

If its been doing this for a while you may not only have to replace the rod bearings but maybe also the crank. It all depends on the damage if it is the rod bearings.

Also this might sound stupid but are you sure its not lifter tick?

--Dave

[-EpicEVO-]

Couldn't that be crank walk?? I have heard of this but still i am not clear on it. If the car has 15,000 miles it could be crank walk from my understanding..

[DlandryTSI]

Crank walk doesn't have ticking noises.

--Dave

[tekky]

Yes it does it at idle, I started about a mile from home I'd say, and just for the records, just before this started, it looks like my water pump started seeping... something on the driver side bottom was leaking water... but when we looked from a rack, couldnt see it at the water pump.... and Xakep, my screen is tekky581, however I cant guarantuee I'll be on, if I am its on my mobile, or MSN tekky581@hotmail.com or yahoo tekky581 I'll keep my celly logged on if I can however, if nothing else, you can drop me a text msg, (its long distance for this area so txt msg is the best way for most ppl to reach me)

http://messaging.sprintpcs.com

# is 832-215-1131
just leave a msg and how to get back in touch with ya, ill be glad to do the calling


as far as getting louder I couldnt say... I think so but couldnt be positive, been 2weeks since I started it...

[tekky]

just fyi, I called on parts for rod bearings... and the guy that droped my motor in, he said apparently its a fairly common problem with these motors, he got one from mitsu that they installed and straight off the rack it did it (reburb'd engine from mitsu which is what this is) and the 2nd one did it w/i a month, which is where this motor came from, it was the 3rd attempt, which lasted ~11k miles... And both he and his roomate just had to swap out bearings on both their cars *shrug*, he pointed me to autozone, $14.95 for the bearing set for each rod and crank bearings included.

Sooooo, we're gonna try and get those swapped out this week after/before work or on a day off ugh my schedule sucks for this... *BUT* Hopefully I'll be on the road shortly after or before this weekend, meaning I'll be able to hopefully make a run out to Bandi sometime soon... everything else permitting... hmmm prolly after I get the front hood/fenders fixed though... hate driving around with body damage. specially front end damage...

Laters, and thanks for all the input/suggestions, and Xakep, thanks for the offer, if its still available once its running I'd still like to grab some data from it just to have an idea of what specs my cars running on things EGT and how my timinging looks throughout the gears.

[tekky]

Welps, after talking to the dealership and stuff, I dont think there's anyway I can do this w/o having a garage or safe place to leave car's underside apart over night since my luck the bearings I need wont be in stock.... called the shop that's worked on a few things for me, and when he looked up the job in your typical shop manual it was saying a 12hr job :rolleyes: ~700 worth of work which he thinks he can do for ~350 (including main bearings since he's down there if I wanted, and this is of course me providing the parts since he prolly cant be the deal mile high gives anyways)

anyone know if thats a good rate for this or not? will be the first time I've had to do this... oh and he also said there is a good chance the crank is scored too badly? how likely is this? :(

thanks again