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intaginize
10-16-2002, 02:45 PM
Western Engine is taking there sweet ass time with my engine. I called yesterday and they tell me there balancing the rotating assembly. Actually Dirk told me this who works there(doesn't know his head from his ass) everytime I try to talk to Terry he either not there or busy. Well I call today and Dirk tells me they havent even balanced the rotating assembly and there just now getting started on putting the assembly back together.
So I ask if the block needs to be decked, response: I dont know do you want it decked?? Shouldent they know just by looking at it if it needs to be decked or not, (dumbasses) then I have to give them instructions to remove the balance shaft bearings from the old block and put them in the new block and to install the front case and oil pan(after I told Terry all of this when I brang the block in over a week ago) . Dirk response: ok what else, ME: I told Terry all this already didint he tell you to do this. No were supposed to read his mind I guess, (ok fucking idiot) that's what im thinking in my head. So I give him directions to install the ARP mains and to make sure there aligned properly and there is no excessive play in the crank once there installed. Ok so he writes all this down and tells the engine builder (Phil). I then ended the conversation.


my main concern is the play on the crank, when installing ARP mains should a CRCO dowel kit be used and should they be aligned honed? Is this only neccasery if the clearances are of? Can I trust them to check the clearances to make sure there right??? I want this engine to last and I dont want it coming apart on me in another 30k miles.

Second I also want to make sure the piston to wall clearance is between .035 to .040 thousands. Anyway I can check this once I get the block back. I may be just a little paranoid about my engine build, but if you spent this much money you would be too. I will be checking all there work as much as I can, at this point I dont trust anybody except for my fellow DSMers.

Appreciate all your suggestions. Thanks

Van
10-16-2002, 09:51 PM
LOL, sorry Keith but I seriously think I'll pay a proven DSM vendor to do my shortblock work this winter.

Super Talon
10-16-2002, 11:46 PM
honestly I think you need to be a landry to get results that are good from them. Dave and hal never have problems with them, but i paid 500 for a valve job and a P&P... it took 2 months to get this done, and there was no P&P. They do not do P&P work so i hear, but the invoice says Port and Polish. Next i take the block to have a helicoil put in... it was 7 degrees off 90... So for me i think they are full of it, which is why i deal with buschurs bullshit and not westerns...

intaginize
10-17-2002, 08:34 AM
Originally posted by Van
LOL, sorry Keith but I seriously think I'll pay a proven DSM vendor to do my shortblock work this winter.


Thanks Vern that makes me feel better.
Well I hope the Engine is done right, or im going to raise HELL.
I told them not to put the oil pan on I want to get a good look at everything when I get it back.

Van
10-17-2002, 08:05 PM
I know man, I'm sorry.:(

Hal
10-18-2002, 03:41 AM
Originally posted by intaginize
Thanks Vern that makes me feel better.
Well I hope the Engine is done right, or im going to raise HELL.
I told them not to put the oil pan on I want to get a good look at everything when I get it back.

Perhaps you'd like to invite Terry over to inspect your installation before you fire it up.

You know... to make sure you've done it right... little things, like putting oil in it?

You ragged on Terry when you had a problem to begin with... perhaps you'd care to share the outcome of Western's inspection of your engine?

If not, perhaps we should invite Terry to give his side of this whole story... fair is fair.

Hal

intaginize
10-18-2002, 08:30 AM
I did have oil in the engine there was four quarts in it before I even tryed to start it. Terry claimed i didint prime the oil pump enough to push oil up into the engine, which is possible. I did spin it just not with a 12 volt drill.

Im not saying they dont do good work. Terry is a good guy he is honest and fair. I just dont like the other people that work there like Dirk. And I dont appreciate calling and having him tell me I cant talk to Terry because he is to busy. That's bullshit

intaginize
10-18-2002, 08:35 AM
I also pulled the MPI fuse and primed it over at least 8 times before I put it back in and tried to start it.

Im not making any false statements about anything so I dont know where anyone got that idea.

Hal
10-18-2002, 08:54 AM
Pulling the MPI fuse to "prime" the pump won't get the job done unless there is ALREADY oil in it.

The proper procedure on a NEW motor is to pack the pump gears with something like grease or vasoline.

Rotate the gears and continue packing until you see the packing material appear on the back side (outlet) of the pump.

You have to do this with the pump (front cover) off of the motor.

Once this is done, assemble the motor and then spin the pump gear until oil appears in the cylinder head at the top of the lifters.

If you don't see oil coming from the tops of the lifters, you haven't properly pre-lubed the motor.

Just spinning the pump gear isn't enough. You have to visually verify that oil is in the oil passages.

Hal

intaginize
10-18-2002, 08:59 AM
I know this now after ruining a $500 dollar piston set and a Engine block.

I wont do something stupid like that again you can bet on it. You learn by your mistakes I guess:( . Thanks Hal

intaginize
10-20-2002, 03:08 PM
Picked the engine up from Western Machine yesterday, looks Excellent, they couldent of done a better job. Honing marks are perfect and the block just looks sweet with the black paint. He set the piston to wall clearance at .055 Terry wanted to make sure there were no clearance issues. I'll post some pictures later.