clutch swap question

[jmakado]

here is what i think is a complete list of what i need:
ACT 2600 kit
OEM throughout bearing
ACT lightened flywheel
Clutch fork and fulcrum ball
Please let me know if i left anything out. i am trying to get everything together but don't want to miss anything.:rolleyes: thanks

[Van]

I would add a SS clutch line to that list if you don't already have one and some new brake fluid too. Oh and get yourself a little tube of red Loc-tite too. You'll want to use it on the flywheel bolts, that clutch fulcrum ball/bolt and the clutch pressure plate bolts.

[hoffman]

dont forget all your fluids. tranny, diff, clutch. get the torque specs too.

[ph3r3d]

possibly new flywheel bolts.. change your tranny fluid too! and service your CV joints

[Danny]

I don't the ACT comes with a clutch alignment tool so you'll need one of of those too. If you don't have that thing youll NEVER get the tranny back in.

[jmakado]

thanks for all the replies everyone. i looked around and it seems like i can get all the parts i need for around $800.
ACT 2600 $365
ACT Flywheel $250
Taboo Shift Fork $120
OEM Throwout bearing $35
Fulcrum ball $15
SS Clutch Line $20
Fluids,loctite,etc. $50
I just posted that in case anyone else is getting ready to do a clutch job and was wondering:)

[Hal]

ACT Flywheel <- waste of money, a stock weight flywheel will be a better choice unless the car is a "track" car

Taboo fork <- another waste of money, use a 2g fork... they never break

S/S clutch line <- gonna be more than $20,

[ph3r3d]

Originally posted by Danny
I don't the ACT comes with a clutch alignment tool so you'll need one of of those too. If you don't have that thing youll NEVER get the tranny back in.


we got one in w/o one! took us a while though

[jmakado]

From Road Race Engineering web site:

Stainless Steel Braided Clutch Flex Line

89-99 Turbo and Non Turbo
$20

This -3 braided hose replaces the flexible rubber clutch fluid line that runs from the body to the bracket on the transmission. Fits FWD and AWD, 1G and 2G Eclipse and Talon, also GVR-4s. The 2G SS clutch line is now longer and completely replaces the reservoir tank on the front of the tranny. This will help reduce pedal travel with heavy clutches. Photo
Install Instructions


I am still undecided on the lightweight flywheel and clutch fork...i think that with the flywheel it would be nice to have quicker revs and i definatly don't want to have to drop the trans. a second time to switch out a bent or broken fork. i am still reading reviews on lighter flywheels before i make a call on that. however, i don't mind spending the extra $60 on a TSS clutch fork to have the piece of mind. if no one ever breaks or bends the 2g fork then that is enough "piece of mind" for me. thanks for the advice though, i will definatly keep it in mind

:D

[Van]

I wonder if there are different part numbers between a 1g and the 2g clutch fork? I was told by MHM awhile back that they are actually the same part nowdays and that the number just changed with the older 1G part and it's corresponding number being replaced.

Hey Hal, by "track" I'd assume you're talking about autox and not drag. I think the heavier weight is best for launching consistently and one of the new ACT wheels is the heaviest of the aftermarket flywheels. This kind of makes it the best choice for overall strength, SFI approval and a little lighter yet still probably heavy enough to retain decent launching characteristics.
I liked my lightened RRE flywheel for almost everything except launching, however they are more dangerous once you start making power. Even a stock flywheel can be considered dangerous. A flywheel entering the cab needs to be a consideration once you start making power, so depending on your goals I'd add the ACT flywheel now. I've only heard good about them so far, which honestly isn't alot.
Plus the difference in price between ACT and the problem prone Fidanza's is nothing to sneeze at.