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Thread: bracing rear end?

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    bracing rear end?

    So at what point would you guys suggest bracing the rear end in a 2g AWD? And what would be the best ways to do it? What I would really like is a tubular rear sub frame (like Jakes). but those are expensive. unless there is a used one out there for sale. that some of you might know of. but thanks for the input.
    powered by 16g all the way to a 12.3 On stock motor top to botom
    Now T67 best run 11.75 still stock top to bottom engine.

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    It keeps you from breaking the rear diff cover. The design back there is not made for high hp. But if you aren't pretty high in the hp range I wouldn't mess with it.
    There is a guy that sells a rear diff cover with better mounts that eliminates this.

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    For your purposes, I'd invest in some solid or urethane bushings for the rear diff. The steel covers (which are stronger) still does not alleviate the breakage enough to where it would make me comfortable.

    There is a conversion available which adds a 2nd diff snout mount onto the drivers' side.

    Get it mounted as solid as you can and you will be better off.

    Marcus

  4. 01-24-2011 10:54 PM


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    The steel cover is like putting a bandaid on a hatchet wound. You're not fixing the problem, you're just moving the breakage elsewhere. The best way is to solid mount the setup, the only two ways to do that are to remove all your bushings and put in metal ones everywhere, or go with a replacement K member. The nice thing about my K is everything is adjustable, and it's lighter. The bad is that it costs about $1700. I use a factory diff cover on mine and have had zero issues with it. But I also don't get any movement anywhere. Making the back solid and not moving to solid rollstops is also kind of pointless. Remove the flex in your drivetrain.
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    I know the replacement k member is the best posible thing. But if I go with the aluminum diff bushings would that be sufficient or would you suggest the diff cover aswell as the inserts? And solid roll stops I assume are also a plus?
    powered by 16g all the way to a 12.3 On stock motor top to botom
    Now T67 best run 11.75 still stock top to bottom engine.

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    There a couple of different options for adding a 4th point.

    Unless you do that, you'll still break covers.

    Hal
    - 758/636 uncorrected @ English Racing, Nov 2011

  8. 01-26-2011 05:04 PM


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    How is yours done Hall? And have you evere had any issues? Last question. Do you make those inserts if so are they for sale? Thank you.
    powered by 16g all the way to a 12.3 On stock motor top to botom
    Now T67 best run 11.75 still stock top to bottom engine.

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    This is a cool thread on rear end bracing
    http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cust...rear-diff.html

    You can buy them from MAP along with the rear diff cover that has the added option to bolt to your sub frame pictured below
    http://www.maperformance.com/bpd-rea...bpd-2grdm.html
    Attached Images
    2008 season best 12.90 @ 108.xx
    2009 season best 12.76 @ 113.56
    2010 season best 12.60 @ 113.78
    16g powered
    67mm bound now
    2011 season best 11.17 @ 135.6
    2012 season best 10.58 @ 136.86
    www.ardesign.info
    For all your fabrication needs.

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    This is the way I would go along with solid rear sub frame bushings even though I don't think I will ever make the amount of power to need for all three things but it will be reassuring just in case.
    2008 season best 12.90 @ 108.xx
    2009 season best 12.76 @ 113.56
    2010 season best 12.60 @ 113.78
    16g powered
    67mm bound now
    2011 season best 11.17 @ 135.6
    2012 season best 10.58 @ 136.86
    www.ardesign.info
    For all your fabrication needs.

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    I run the steel cover with a 4th mount point designed by Andrew Kinser.
    Attached Images
    - 758/636 uncorrected @ English Racing, Nov 2011

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